Quito, Ecuador

The City Beneath the Slain Serpent

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I knew Quito was going to be huge, because although my bus driver said I was still more than an hour from my hotel, the signs along the road were labeled with “Quito” insignia. Volcanoes towered around the bus in all directions, and as I traveled further northward, I became more and more enchanted by the city splayed out in the bowl-shaped valley between them.

Speaking of volcanoes, it is at the most ubiquitous of Quito’s many nearby volcanoes, Cotopaxi, that the story of my short love affair with the city actually begins. After having left Ecuador’s adventure capital, Baños, early in the morning, I enjoyed a picnic lunch on the shores of a lake in the shadows of Cotopaxi, the world’s third-highest active volcano.

If you’ve ever traveled to South America, you know that virgin statues are a dime a dozen. But as my bus sped away from Cotopaxi and ever closer to Quito, I couldn’t take my eyes off the one that rises above the Ecuadorian capital, which the signage I mentioned above designated as “La Mejor Ciudad del Mundo” – the best city in the world.

After a brief stop at the equator the following morning, I got my chance to see if this assertion was correct. My first destination within Quito itself? El Panecillo, the high mount on top of which Quito’s proverbial virgin sits.

The meaning of the statue, which literally depicts la virgen stepping on some kind of apocalyptic dragon, is open to interpretation, although my local guide told me it symbolized the Mother Mary’s protection of Quito from the volcanoes which surround it.

From El Panecillo I headed lower in elevation, and northward in latitude to Quito’s historical center, with the highlight of my two-hour stroll through el centro being a stop inside the San Francisco cathedral, an architectural marvel which is currently being restored.

The unfortunate part is that while I managed to get some great shots of Quito, as well as to put my finger at least partially on the city’s pulse, constant reminders of Quito’s status as a relatively dangerous city prevented me from fully exploring it.

Local police, which are installed on practically every street corner, frequently warned me against wandering down particular streets, some of which actually had messages of caution painted, in English, over them.

To be sure, Quito’s dangerousness, whether it lies more in fact or in paranoid gringo tourist fiction, is the one thing that prevents me from thinking it might soon become the best city in the world. I hope that one day, this non-volcanic dragon is slain, by a virgin or some other force, so that I might succumb to the seduction that lured me into its serpentine streets and alleyways.

Leave Your Daily Hell   Filed under: Ecuador

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is the author of 1065 posts on Leave Your Daily Hell. Robert founded Leave Your Daily Hell in 2010 so that other travelers would have an entertaining, reliable source of information, advice and inspiration at their fingertips. Want to travel more often? Subscribe to email updates today!


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CuriosityTravels November 29, 2013 at 8:40 am

I had an internship in Quito during college, and after three months there I was so ready to leave. The surrounding mountains are amazing and it is such an interesting place, but I also think it’s far from being the “best city in the world.” I didn’t feel very safe and there were many stories of car jacking and muggings (sometimes by gun point). It also seemed like being robbed was a right of passage while living there.


Robert Schrader November 29, 2013 at 11:57 am

That is very sad to hear, but not entirely surprising. A local tour guide told me that the best way to see the city by night was from a luxury taxi!

PnP goes global November 29, 2013 at 3:51 pm

I think Quito is a whole lot safer than Guayaquil, but that is not saying much! Ecuador has a long way to go but I have hopes – cities like Bogota have changed immensely in the last ten years! There’s some potential for Ecuador, but first I hope they can deal with the social injustices. It’s such a beautiful country and culture!

Robert Schrader November 30, 2013 at 9:36 am

Yeah, I didn’t really get a chance to explore Guayaquil. Where is your favorite place in Ecuador?

PnP goes global December 3, 2013 at 9:43 am

that’s like picking my favourite food 🙂 impossible! I really like Cuenca and Otavalo but those are the more mainstream places that everyone heads to. There’s a great little beach town named Olon. I think Montanita is totally over rated and personally I find it kinda gross 😉 but Olon is right next door and we have had some great experiences there and another near by town, dos mangas! I’ll be posting my travel stories about those places soon 😉

gizzly73 October 16, 2015 at 6:30 pm


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