I’ll never forget the experience of descending from Bhutan’s Dochula Pass—and not just because of how disappointed I was that the summit was covered in clouds, though that was a bummer.
Indeed, it wasn’t just that the sky cleared as the road pitched steeply down hill. It was that the entire landscape changed: Banana trees instead of pines; plateaus covered in verdant rice fields instead of mountainsides that were surprisingly bare.
This is to say nothing of how much the temperature went up, nor of pronounced cultural differences. Is Punakha worth visiting? I think you can guess my answer to this question.
How to Get to Punakha (and Where to Stay)
I’ll explain my drama within Punakha hotels in a moment, but let’s first focus on how to reach the city. Realistically, where you’re coming from Paro or Thimphu, the only way to reach Punakha is by taxi. Hotels in either of these cities will try to sell you on for 50-100 USD, though I’m here to tell that you negotiating independently with a driver on the streets will save you half (or more) off this price.
In terms of where to stay when you get there, the best hotel (in my opinion) is Hotel Lobesa. Unfortunately, while I thought I had a booking there, it turns out that an Indian scammer had stolen my money. Instead, I just had lunch at Hotel Lobesa, and instead had to sleep at Hotel Vara (which was fine—the staff had good intentions—but not nearly as nice or beautiful).
What to Do in Punakha
Visit Punakha Dzong
The bad news? Even in the era where guided tours are no longer required to visit Bhutan in general, you do still need a guide to enter certain establishments, dzong first among them. The good news? Guides are constantly entering Punakha Dzong (Bhutan’s most famous such monastery), and are usually happy to let stray travelers accompany them.
(And admire it from afar)
The interior to Punakha Dzong is impressive, no doubt, but an equally essential addition to any Punakha itinerary is seeing the structure from across the river. It looks almost otherworldly standing resplendtly amid the Bhutanese nature, which might sound a bit contradictory given how completely Bhutanese a place a dzong is.
Cross the famous suspension bridge
If you’ve ever been to Nepal, rickety suspension bridges decorated in prayer flags and swinging to-and-fro above milky, glacial rivers are not a novelty. The one in Punakha, however, is still worth a visit, if only because it’s just a few minutes by car from the dzong. It also feels a bit more…stable than the ones you may have crossed trekking to Everest Base Camp.
Explore the “penis village”
After the paintings there went viral a few years ago, the “penis village” of Sopsokha (whose art has everything to do with fertility, and nothing to do with pornography) became one of the most famous things to do in Punakha. While I’ll be honest that the novelty wears off quickly, this place does offer a range of hard…to ignore souvenirs, so there’s that.
Go white water rafting—or don’t
My lovely driver was confused as to why I would come all the way to Punakha (whose low elevation makes it much warmer than most of the rest of Bhutan) and not take part in white water rafting on the Mo Chu River. Relatively speaking, it’s very safe here, and the views are obviously beautiful. I hope it’s your jam—it certainly isn’t mine.
How Many Days Do You Need in Punakha?
Punakha is a very small city—more of a town, really—so you don’t need much time here. At the same time, it is pretty far away by the standards of the Bhutanese tourist trail. While I personally only stayed one night and part of two days there, there’s an argument to be made that the long journey alone justifies a second or even third night, to say nothing of the warmer weather compared to the rest of Bhutan.
Another aspect of how many days in Punakha you should spend, of course, is how long your entire trip to Bhutan will last. If you’re only staying five nights like I did, it becomes more difficult to justify staying longer than a night in Punakha. On the other hand, if you have a long trip, then you obviously have more time to play with and can stay two or even three nights here.
Other FAQ About Visiting Punakha
Which is better, Paro or Punakha?
I love both Paro and Punakha for different reasons. While Paro is worth visiting simply for its proximity both to Bhutan’s main airport at to the Tiger’s Nest, Punakha deserves accolades for its subtropical climate and landscape, as well as for just how relaxed it is.
What is Punakha known for?
The most famous attraction in Punakha is Punakha Dzong, which is widely recognized as being the more impressive dzong in all of Bhutan. Beyond this, the region is home for ecotourism activities like hiking and white-water rafting, as well as for the “Penis Village” of Sopsokha.
How long is the drive from Punakha to Paro?
Depending on your driver and whether or not you stop at Dochula Pass, the drive from Punakha to Paro can take as little as three hours or as long as five hours. Keep in mind that for most travelers, this is the longest possible drive along Bhutan’s tourist trail, to the extent that the country has one.
The Bottom Line
Is Punakha worth visiting? Yes, and not just for the magnificent Punakha Dzong, though this is what draws most tourists here. Compared (at least) to Paro and Thimphu, Punakha simply presents a different version of Bhutan, with a balmy and almost subtropical climate, with vegetation and culture to reflect the lower elevation and higher temperature. It feels like almost a different destination, and makes me want to explore other parts of Bhutan. Need personalized help putting your Bhutan trip together? I hope you’ll consider hiring me as your Travel Coach!
