I’ve never been swayed hugely by “must-visit” attractions, and was even less so when I was younger. As a result, when I planned my first trip to Iceland almost a decade ago, the country’s famous black sand beaches were not high on my list.
On the other hand, one of them—Reynisfjara—was on the way between some of the places I gave a higher priority. And so I stopped there, although in hindsight you could argue that perhaps I shouldn’t have done so. More on that bit of fatalism in a minute.
Regardless of whether or not you personally end up visiting the Reynisfjara black sand beach, I hope you’ll find my insights about it valuable. And I hope you’ll end up having more hospitable conditions for doing so than I did!
Why My Time at Reynisfjara Terrified Me
The perfect storm, my Icelandic friend texted me, after I asked him whether the weather alert I’d received driving eastward from Reykjavik that morning had been accurate. He’d meant to write “Storm of the Century,” I think, but the message was clear: This was probably not the best day to be hitting the beach, never mind the fact that it was December and the wind would’ve been frigid, even if skies had been completely sunny.
Certainly, it made me wish that I’d considered renting a camper with Camper Rental Iceland, so that I could hunker down overnight and wait for better conditions to appears. Instead, I drove down to the beach in my SUV, and stayed as far away from the water as I could. I wasn’t about to get swept out to sea in the middle of a fierce, winter storm at 30 years of age (which is how old I was at the time).
5 Things to Know About Iceland’s Black Sand Beach
You don’t necessarily need to avoid winter
It might surprise you, but the best time to visit Reynisfjara isn’t the summer, at least not always. A day in July or August can be cold (by non-Nordic standards) and wet, just as it’s possible to have beautiful (though not necessarily bright) sunshine during the cooler period between about September and April.
(But you shouldn’t try to swim in summer)
No matter what form your Reynisfjara itinerary takes, I urge not you to swim—don’t even try it, no matter how skilled a swimmer you consider yourself to be. The currents are simply too strong, to say nothing of the fact that there are no lifeguards here. No picture or adrenaline rush is worth dying for.
Time your visit to the time of year
While the weather can be unpredictable no matter what month you visit, lighting is a surer thing. In summer, when the “Midnight Sun” keeps the sky light for almost 24 hours, you can admire prolonged sunset lighting in the early morning or late evening hours. By contrast, in winter, you’ll need to come after about 9 AM or before 4 PM.
Obey all posted signs—for real
There aren’t a lot of Reynisfjara things to do besides getting pictures of the basalt columns just offshores. I mentioned earlier that you shouldn’t even think about swimming. Beyond this, however, there are times when signs will advise you not even to walk a certain distance onto the beach, usually due to riptides. Please obey all signs, for your own safety!
Put it in perspective
If you want to follow this advice literally, type the words “Reynisfjara Viewpoint” into your maps app and enjoy a different view of this iconic sight. In a figurative sense, meanwhile, seeing Reynisfjara in the broader context of southern Iceland (which I’ll explain more in the next section) offers the best experience.
Other Iceland South Coast Destinations
Iceland’s South Coast is perhaps the most interesting place in the country, and certainly the one where you get the best bang for your buck:
- The so-called Diamond Beach and nearby Jokulsarlon Glacier Lagoon are two superlative destinations anytime of the year.
- The city of Vík is fabulous, particularly if you visit during the summer when lupines are in bloom around its iconic church.
- Other adventure activities are abundant, whether that involves visiting Skaftafell waterfall or taking a guided trek through an ice cave.
TIP: After traveling from Reykjavik to Reynisfjara, I recommend continuing counter-clockwise around the country via the Ring Road, ideally circumnavigating the island completely.
Other FAQ About Iceland’s Black Sand Beach
Why can’t you swim in Reynisfjara?
The currents are Reynisfjara are some of the most dangerous in all of Iceland—even if you’re a strong swimmer, it is possible (on some days, likely) that they will take you out to sea. Beyond this, the water here is cold even in the middle of the summer.
Is Reynisfjara Beach worth it?
In my opinion, Reynisfjara doesn’t necessarily deserve its world-famous reputation. There are many other amazing beaches in Iceland, include some with black sand, and not that far from Reynisfjara either. On the other hand, the beach is en route between places you’re likely to be beforehand, and ones you’ll probably visited after.
How long do you need at Reynisfjara black sand beach?
I don’t recommend stopping at Reynisfjara for longer than an hour, maybe two if you visit the viewpoint above it to look down on the beach. For me, it’s less of a destination in and of itself, and more of a waypoint that you stop at during a comprehensive South Coast road trip.
The Bottom Line
Does the Reynisfjara black sand beach live up to the hype? On one hand, it’s a somewhat ordinary beach, at least as far as Iceland is concerned—I, for one, prefer the nearby Diamond Beach. On the other hand, given its location along Iceland’s attraction-rich South Coast, it can be enjoyable (and, importantly, pretty easily enjoyed) within the context of other destinations. If you do visit, I hope it won’t be under similar weather conditions to the ones that defined my own trip—and that you will follow posted advice regarding the dangers of swimming. Need personalized help putting your Iceland itinerary together? Consider hiring me as your Travel Coach!
