After my flight landed in Siem Reap, I headed toward the town center with one thought in mind: Why, after nearly a decade—and with hundreds of millions of dollars in tourism revenue gained—had the standard of living for locals changed so little since the last time I came here?
The man who picked me up, as if to read my mind, asked my opinion as we turned onto a bumpy side street off the not-much-of-a-main road. “Is it very different from how you remember it?”
Spoiler alert: As I present my Siem Reap itinerary to you, I’ll be interspersing some historical and social commentary. Obviously, I hope this additional insight will enhance your trip, though it’ll be easy enough to read past if not.
Where to Stay in Siem Reap
I’d wanted to come back to Cambodia for a long while, especially after an illuminating return trip to Phnom Penh, also for the first time in many years. So, when Siem Reap hotel Tresor d’Angkor Suites invited me to review their property, I eagerly jumped at the opportunity. This was almost as good as cashback, in terms of its impact on my bottom line as a blogger.
The good news? Even if no one offers you a free room in Siem Reap, a wide variety of accommodations are available, from higher-end suites and hotels, to mid-range local guest houses and even hostels if you’re really looking to save a lot of money. The better news? Siem Reap is small enough that even if you stay someplace a bit “outside” of town, it’s only a short tuk-tuk ride to all the action.
How to Approach Your Siem Reap Itinerary
Watch sunrise at Angkor Wat—maybe
I’ll be honest: I’ve never gotten a truly awesome sunrise shot at Angkor Wat, in spite of having tried many times. On my first trip, way back in 2010, the sunrise itself was fine, but I was neither equipped from a technical perspective (I’d just bought my first DSLR camera days earlier), nor in the sense that I applied insect repellent. You’ll watch sunset from just in front of a shallow pond, so DEET is essential!
(Or sunset somewhere else)
To be sure, as the second day of my Siem Reap itinerary progressed, I didn’t have much of an appetite to explore other temples, such as Ta Phrom, Bayon and Angkor Thom. Instead, I decided to wait until late afternoon to head out again. This proved to be the right choice, even if watching the sunset from atop Phnom Bakheng didn’t yield pictures as iconic as a proper sunrise at the foot of Angkor Wat would’ve.
Make local diversions
Re-visiting Angkor Wat was high on my list of priorities, in spite of the fact that I’d already done it, but I decided in advance of my trip that I’d devote day two of my 3 days in Siem Reap to Angkor-related activities. As a result, when a friendly Cambodian person I met at lunch on day one offered to take me to a nearby lotus pond later in the week, I didn’t hesitate.
Discover Siem Reap’s dining scene
Speaking of lunch (and dinner), Siem Reap’s Pub Street and the area around it is a bonafide foodie hub. While it’s true that it’s full of tourists, it’s also where you find Siem Reap restaurants that feature some of the best food I’ve eaten anywhere in this region. Beyond local restaurants serving Khmer favorites like fish amok, you can also enjoy a variety of international cuisine, including some of the best Mexican food I’ve had in Asia.
Plot your next move
A Siem Reap itinerary is never just a trip to Siem Reap. Rather, you’ll want to head somewhere else in small-but-mighty Cambodia. Some travelers will choose the capital city of Phnom Penh, where a bright present and future cut through an impossibly dark past, while others will head to coastal Sihanoukville, and use it as a jumping-off point for excursions to idyllic Koh Rong island.
How Many Days Do I Need in Siem Reap?
In most cases, I suggest a 3 days in Siem Reap itinerary, so in a sense you know my answer to this question. On the other hand, this issue is not cut-and-dry. For instance, if you just want to see Angkor Wat and spend a full day in the city, then two days is plenty; if you want to spend time at secondary and tertiary temples in the Angkor complex, a week might not even be enough. As much of a cop-out as this seems, it’s really all up to your personal preference.
On the other hand, as I mentioned in the section above, how many days in Siem Reap you spend should always take into account your larger plans in Cambodia and in Southeast Asia as a whole. If you have weeks to play with rather than months, you can obviously devote a smaller amount of time to Siem Reap and cities like it.
Other FAQ About Siem Reap
Is Siem Reap better than Phnom Penh?
Siem Reap is certainly more convenient than Phnom Penh if visiting Angkor Wat is your priority during your time in Cambodia. Apart from that, however, I think both of Cambodia’s largest cities have their own merits. While Siem Reap is a laid-back tourist town mostly useful as a base for visiting Angkor Wat, Phnom Penh is a vibrant and (relatively) cosmopolitan capital city.
How many days do you need in Angkor Wat?
You can see the main temple of Angkor Wat in just a day, particularly if you’ve got a bike or if you hire your own tuk-tuk for the day. However, if you want to explore other temples like Angkor Thom and Ta Phrom, or even get lost among the dozens of others on-site, two days might be a better amount of time to spend.
How many days to spend in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh?
As a general rule, I think between 2-3 days each in Siem Reap and Phnom Penh is a good idea. While your time in Siem Reap will mostly center on visiting Angkor Wat, your days in Phnom Penh will see you mostly in the city center, apart from the possibility of a day trip to the Killing Fields.
The Bottom Line
I hope my insights about Siem Reap have elicited as many questions as they’ve provided answers. On one hand, if you come to Siem Reap solely to see Angkor Wat, you will almost certainly be disappointed. By contrast, if you have an open mind, a free spirit and my Siem Reap itinerary in hand (or on phone), the city quickly transcends tourist trap status. Need personalized help putting your trip together? Hire me as your Travel Coach to get personalized recommendations for your trip to Cambodia (and Southeast Asia, more broadly).
