Walking through Paris on my most recent trip to the city, a sense of gravity came over me. Gravity, and gratitude: Paris was one of the first foreign cities I ever visited, way back in 2005; my early explorations of it informed the entire personality and perspective I eventually adopted as a traveler.
What’s weird is that although this swing through France’s capital was intended as an after-dinner drink of sorts—I’d just completed a marathon three-week trip through the country—I nonetheless felt a pressure to dig deeper, to see clearer. Not to rest on the assumption that Paris is a city I know well enough to stop trying whenever I’m here.
If I’m honest, I feel a similar weight as I once again re-create my Paris itinerary, for probably the fifth or sixth time in the past two decades. You’ll have to let me know how well I’ve done!
Where to Stay in Paris
As you might imagine, Paris hotels run the entire gamut. If you’re a traveler without a budget (in which case I doubt you’re reading this blog—honored if you are!), then five-star “palace” properties like Cheval Blanc (or, at minimum, the five-star Four Seasons Hotel George V) are likely the ones on your radar. On the far opposite end, budget properties range from simple hotel such as Hotel Aida Marais to actual hostels, i.e. Le Village Montmartre.
In recent years, I’ve taken to some of Paris’ more boutique-style properties. Some of these are proper hotels—I really enjoyed my recent star at Grand Hôtel Malher, located in the eastern end of Le Marais near Saint-Paul Station. Absent this, I’ve found some fantastic Paris properties on Airbnb, though I do encourage you to read the terms and conditions carefully—I may or may not be speaking from personal experience.
What to Do in Paris (No Matter How Many Times You’ve Been)
Start (and end) with a stroll
One reason I regard my third trip to Paris (in 2008) so fondly is that I deliberately made it out discovery, rather than reconnaissance. After arriving early one morning at Gare d’Austerlitz Station, I walked the entire length of the Seine River to the Eiffel Tower (and took the Metro back). Now, I don’t blame you if such a stroll is outside the scope of your trip—I certainly don’t have that kind of time anymore. But I do suggest starting and ending every day with a walk, even if it’s just a walk to your local bistro or brasserie for a meal along the sidewalk.
Sample Paris’ various viewpoints
Another of my favorite things to do in Paris? Seeing the city from above. On my latest visit, I was disappointed to learn that the Montparnasse Tower (which I previously cited as my favorite viewpoint in Paris) would be closed until 2030 at the earliest. That was without a doubt a piece of bad news. The good news? There are tons of other spots where you can get an amazing view of Paris, including the top of the Arc de Triomphe, the roof of Galleries Lafayette shopping mall and of course, atop Madame Eiffel herself—more on her in a minute.
Stick to one arrondissement (or two) per day
The sheer number of neighborhoods in Paris can be overwhelming, which is why I don’t suggest trying to turn it into a to-do list. Rather, I usually explore one or two arrondissements per day, namely those that are convenient to where I plan to be. For example, if I’m staying in Le Marais, I’ll sometimes walk over the river through Île de la Cité to the Quartier Latin. Likewise, don’t just visit Sacre Coeur Cathedral. Instead, explore surrounding Montmartre, particularly after it lights up at night.
Use the Eiffel Tower as a reference point, not a focal point
Look, I don’t want to be a hypocrite here—I literally just posted a picture of myself standing in the Trocadéro, the square right at the base of La Tour Eiffel. But once you’ve seen the monolith from here (or from the Champ de Mars), I find that it’s easier to appreciate it when you see it at the horizon or out of the corner of your either, rather than getting as close to it as you possible can. I’m also generally not a huge fan of going up in it, as strange as that might sound.
Take a day trip to Versailles, or the the chateaux of the Loire Valley
Now, by popular demand, I’ve written an article dedicated to day trips from Paris—I suggest checking it out if this topic is very relevant to you. The tl;dr version, however, is that there are two main destinations that are realistically close enough to Paris for a day trip. The first? The palace(s) of Versailles, pictured above. The second? The Loire Valley, and specifically the châteaux of Chenonceau, Chambord, Amboise and (maybe) Villandry.
How Many Days in Paris is Enough?
Paris is a massive city—to extent that it’s the “primate city,” as far as France is concerned—and one that I didn’t escape (so to speak) for the entirety of my first three trips there. I mentioned this not because I think you should skip the rest of France—I don’t—but because I think you’re more than justified if you want to stay a long while in Paris. If you have the time to spare, in fact, I’d say that a stay of a week in Paris (or longer) is perfectly rational.
With this being said, most people only have 2-3 weeks in France (or around two months in Europe) in total, and so the discussion of how many days in Paris necessarily narrows in scope. In this case, I’d say that between 3-5 days in Paris (2-3 days in the city center, plus 1-2 for day trips) is perhaps a better starting point. You don’t want to cannibalize other French destinations simply to spend time in the capital.
Other FAQ About Visiting Paris
Is $5,000 enough for a trip to Paris?
Unless you are a very high-end traveler, $5,000 is usually enough for a trip to Paris—this breaks down to around 700 USD per day if you stay a week which for a solo travelers or even a couple is totally doable. Do keep in mind, however, that this amount can grow much larger for larger groups and families, and if you add the cost for flights to and from Europe into the mix.
What is the best month to go to Paris?
Paris is a true 365-day destination, with its glittering streets as resplendent under falling snow as they are bathed by the bright sunshine of summer. While I tend to prefer Paris as warming weather eases its blossoms open, it’s difficult to deny how beautiful the city looks amid peak autumn colors. With this being said, I’d base the timing of your trip to Paris less on any seasonal phenomenon, and more on when you need to be in France (or the rest of Europe) more broadly.
Is Paris still worth visiting?
No destination can live up to all the hype built up around it, and it’s no secret that Paris has disappointed more than a few travelers—Japanese ones, especially. At the same time, Paris is a massive and eclectic receptacle filled with some of the world’s best architecture, art, food and urban design, to say nothing of the millions of locals and tourists who call it home on any given day. I’ve had my share of bad experiences there, but if you can’t find anything about Paris that makes it worth visiting, the problem might be you.
The Bottom Line
I’ve been refining and refreshing this Paris itinerary for literally 20 years—I don’t think you’ll find another one online that’s quite as thoughtful or nuanced. I’ve also done my best to make it concise and actionable, so that you can actually plan a trip using it. Some of you will spend a few days in Paris at the beginning or end of a larger trip through France; others will come here for a week (or even longer) and use the capital as a base for exploring the country. In either case, I do hope you’ll consider hiring me as your Travel Coach. When you do, I’ll create a personalized France itinerary for you, complete with daily recommendations for activities, meals and accommodation, plus detailed transportation advice through.
