The ghosts of my first trip to Provence have always haunted me. I realize this sounds dramatic, but stay with me for a moment—I promise I have a point to make.
I visited the region in the last summer of 2013, August to be specific. It was a wonderful time, if I’m honest: Very warm (but not hot) weather; plenty of light (without an excessively late sunset); and much lighter crowds than I expected. But something was missing: Lavender, at least lavender that was in bloom. I voted to come back one day and right this wrong.
Spoiler alert: I was (sort of) successful in this aim; my Provence itinerary will specifically highlight how to include la lavande in your own trip. But my long-awaited return also highlighted that while lavender may be where Provence begins, at least in my own mind, it definitely doesn’t end there.
Where to Base Yourself in Provence
If you go searching the internet for “Provence hotels,” you’ll find yourself in a bottomless pit of information. Provence, you see, is a vast region—you could technically find yourself based as far away from the action as Marseille (which is, shocking as it may seem, part of Provence). Before you search for specific hotels, then, you need to decide where in Provence you’ll want to base yourself.
Now, in terms of both convenience/creature comforts and the sheer number of accommodations available, large cities like Arles, Avignon and Aix-en-Provence are always a safe bet, especially if you have either the time to navigate local buses and trains, or a rental car that makes them irrelevant. If you do have a rental car but want to laser-focus on lavender, meanwhile, staying on one of the three plateaus where it grows (Luberon, Valensole or Sault) probably isn’t a bad idea.
Where to Go in Provence
Arles
Arles is most notable for being a place where Vincent Van Gogh lived (and painted) toward the end of his life, but it’s got plenty going for it even if you aren’t an art aficionado. Among other reasons is the Roman amphitheater at the center of the old town, and the picture-perfect streets that radiate outward from it in all directions. Arles is an “easy” city in the best possible way.
Pont du Gard
Another one of the best things to do in Provence is to head from Arles to Pont du Gard, an ancient Roman aqueduct that sits just west of the city. This is an especially appealing destination in summer (in addition to admiring the architectural, you can cool off in the waters of the Gardon River that flow beneath it), but is worthy of an excursion basically any time of the year.
Avignon
With all due respect to the large Aix-en-Provence, the former papal seat of Avignon is the only other major city in Provence I’ll be recommending within the itinerary. And not just because of the Palais des Papes, though it is one of my favorite attractions anywhere in French. To be sure, I love admiring Avignon’s cityscape as it rises above the Rhône River, and dining at the delicious Provençal restaurants that line its streets.
Luberon, Sault and/or Valensole
If you plan to prioritize lavender, then the most important places to visit in Provence are the plateaus of Luberon, Sault and Valensole. Coming in late June? In most years, the areas around Luberon will be your best bet for seeing la lavande; Valensole blooms a couple of weeks later, usually peaking in the first or second week of July. Sault, meanwhile, can sometimes stay in bloom as late as August, though it was almost entirely spent by mid-July when I was last there in 2026.
Verdon Gorge
Far in Provence’s east you’ll find Verdon Gorge, which is really a two part destination. The first is Pont du Galetas, which spans the gorge right where it empties into Lac de Saint-Croix. If you have a car, however, you can continue deeper into the gorge, ultimately making your way along the scenic Route des Crêtes before looping back westward.
Do You Need to Rent a Car in Provence?
I’ve done Provence both with and without a rental car, and can see the pros and cons of each. I’ll start, however, with a pretty rock-solid declaration: If you plan to focus intently on the lavender that grows in Luberon, Sault and Valensole, you absolutely need a car. You can technically reach each of these places via bus, but an effective lavender trip requires the nimbleness that only your own set of wheels can grant.
On the other hand, if you plan to focus mostly on cities (during my first trip to the region, for example, it was basically just the Avignon-and-Arles-show—then the topic of how to get around in Provence is much less contentious. All the cities are towns of Provence are completely walkable. TGV trains stop in larger cities, while local trains and buses connect virtually all the smaller ones, even if they don’t always come as often as you’d like.
Other FAQ About Visiting Provence
How many days in Provence is enough?
How long you spend in Provence really depends upon how broadly and deeply you plan to explore the region. If you only plan to visit cities like Avignon, Arles and Aix-en-Provence, then you can see most of what’s on offer in a day or two or three. By contrast, if you plan to add in natural attractions (such as summer’s lavender fields, or more evergreen spots like Pont du Gard and Verdon Gorge), you can easily eat up 3-5 days in Provence, maybe even longer.
What is the best month to visit Provence?
Obviously, if seeing lavender is a priority, than late June or early July is the best time to visit Provence. However, a close second is late September and early October, which is the gorgeous harvest season. Trust be told, if neither of these natural phenomena are a priority, then you can basically enjoy Provence year-round.
Where is the best place to base yourself in Provence?
If I have a car and plan to focus specifically on the annual lavender bloom, I usually like to base myself on one of the agricultural plateaus of Provence—Luberon if I’m coming in June; Valensole in early July; or Sault in mid-July or late. If not, then you’ll find the best array of accommodation in larger cities like Arles, Avignon and Aix-en-Provence.
The Bottom Line
My Provence itinerary makes it easy to plan your own trip, whether or not you plan to focus as specifically on lavender as I tend to do. It’s focused as much on evergreen destinations (namely, the superlative cities of Arles and Avignon) as it does on whatever the bloom on the Valensole plateau is doing. Likewise, I’ve spotlighted non-urban destinations such as Pont du Gard and Verdon Gorge, which are resplendent 365 days per year. Need personalized help creating an actionable plan for Provence (and for the south of France, more broadly)? Consider hiring me as your Travel Coach, and allowing me to do the heavy lifting.
