Hiroshima, Japan

Hatred and Healing in Hiroshima

One of the first places I visited back in July 2010, literally hours after I officially become location-independent in fact, was the Vietnam War Museum in Saigon, Vietnam. I hadn’t particularly wanted to go to the museum, but the couple I was traveling with were eager to go, and since I was still shell-shocked from my decision to leave Shanghai on such a moment’s notice, I didn’t raise any objections.

I heard weeping behind me as I stood before an exhibit on the use of Agent Orange. “I can’t believe those heathens did that,” the male voice whimpered. He sounded American, but the content and tone of what he was saying made it clear that he was Canadian.

“And to think,” his female companion said, “many of them have the gall to come here. Can you imagine what a Vietnamese person would say if they met an American?”

I can. They wouldn’t give a fuck, because the majority of them weren’t alive when the Vietnam War happened; neither were the majority of Americans who visit Vietnam, myself included. Come to mention it, I was relatively certain both of the people accusing my entire country of being “heathens” had been born well after the Vietnam War ended.

I decided to hold my tongue, if only out of respect for all the people who still managed to be moved by the museum in spite of the verbal diarrhea that nearly ruined my visit. But although nearly four years have now passed (and although I, unlike these assholes, refuse to make generalizations about entire nationalities based on history I wasn’t around to witness), the incident has left a bad taste in my mouth when it comes to the general area of war tourism.

The good news is that this particular piece of history did not repeat itself during my short stay in Hiroshima, Japan at the end of last week, excepting of course the parallels in past atrocities against humanity. There were a few people who lost their shit walking past the Atomic Bomb Dome and looking upon various memorials in the Hiroshima Peace Park, but in general, it was a civil affair.

Thing is, it all felt a little superfluous, and not just because the modern city of Hiroshima that rises around the Memorial Park leaves little indication that any war ever occurred here. In spite of how solemn the scene should’ve been, due not only to the aforementioned dome and memorials, but from a purely energetic perspective, I left feeling cold and disconnected.

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Part of this stems from my general disinterest in museum-like attractions (a tendency which, on a side note, is a bit strange due to my general interest in history itself). But another part of it is that I can’t help but find the importance placed upon remembering (or, as is the case with my country’s recent past, vowing to “Never Forget”) grotesque tragedies counterproductive.

While I don’t think there’s any inherent problem with honoring what happened in Hiroshima, Saigon or New York City, I don’t believe for a second that doing so achieves anything.Thousands of years of education in history, the effect of said history being filtered to suit a particular country’s current propaganda scheme notwithstanding, has done little to slow the forward momentum of war’s destructive power.

Peace requires forgiveness and a willingness to let go, so that we might break the chain of abuse, pain and suffering that has linked all the human generations thus far together. Instead of constructing more memorials to war, why don’t we engineer pathways to peace? I mean, what good is a monument commemorating the heinousness of past wars if visitors walk past one another, making judgmental remarks and feeding into the black hole of “us vs. them.”?

If you’re considering a trip to Hiroshima and it’s convenient for you to visit, I definitely suggest you come here, if only to see if for yourself and to form your opinion. But I definitely don’t believe you should go out of your way to come here or agree with the statement some make, that it’s a place everyone should visit once in their lifetime.

Instead, why not just try being nice instead of mean? That’s what I plan to do the next time I feel like being an asshole to someone – and God knows I’m guilty of that more than I should be!

Leave Your Daily Hell   Filed under: Japan

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is the author of 789 posts on Leave Your Daily Hell. Robert founded Leave Your Daily Hell in 2010 so that other travelers would have an entertaining, reliable source of information, advice and inspiration at their fingertips. Want to travel more often? Subscribe to email updates today!


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{ 12 comments… read them below or add one }

Raphael Alexander Zoren April 14, 2014 at 7:57 am

Interesting perspective as always, Robert! When I visited the Hilton Hotel/Prison in Hanoi I was shocked to see a Vietnamese tour guide ranting and ranting against Americans…in a tour group made of 80% Americans. I bet he didn’t get any tips afterwards!

PS. Kind of scary that according to your author box this was your 666th post 😮

ATA April 14, 2014 at 7:58 am

Generalization at it best. Don’t give a f**k to them. The history is the history, no one can erased it. What we can do, reflect and learn.

Robert Schrader April 15, 2014 at 9:42 pm

Eeek! Bad luck or good luck?

Robert Schrader April 15, 2014 at 9:42 pm

Yes, exactly!

Claude Glover May 7, 2014 at 7:23 pm

In 1992 I made my first trip to Europe, using Munich as the gateway. I’ll never forget the overwhelmingly melancholy sensation of looking down on the German countryside on a beautiful June morning, and thinking about my father flying over the same country nearly 50 years before in a B-17 in the 8th Air Force. It was one of those ah-ha experiences where you gain insight and vividly get that history is fluid and very dynamic, and that it’s just not a good idea to get stuck in the past (although it’s obviously not good to be ignorant of it). Kudos to you for refusing to fall into the trap of making and believing wild generalizations about people and their countries…the world needs much more of that attitude.

Robert Schrader May 9, 2014 at 8:10 am

Thanks for your powerful comment, Claude. Wow, Europe in 1992. I wish!

Randy June 19, 2014 at 11:12 pm

I first visited Hiroshima in 1979. The museum left me with a sense of powerless in a sea o humanity. I lived in and near Hiroshima for seven years and love the city and the people. I return every year to visit family and friends. I would recommend visiting to all who tour Japan. Today there is a river boat that departs from a dock near the Atomic Dome that will take you to Miyajima and back. It’s a tour between two World Heritage Sites.

Robert Schrader June 23, 2014 at 8:04 am

Thanks for the tip!

Chalsie January 6, 2015 at 2:38 am

Really glad I’ve stumbled upon your blog! Throughly enjoying the read.

It’s interesting how different our perspectives of Hiroshima are! I walked away feeling the museum really spoke of peace, and forgiveness. Not dwelling on the past but learning from it.

We definitely shouldn’t been punished for horrible decisions our forefathers have made! But I think we should still recognise the harm and pain caused. For instance, I’m from Australia, and to this day we still haven’t recognised the horrible genocide inflicted on Aboriginal Australians. We’ve certainly got a long way to come!

Robert Schrader January 6, 2015 at 3:29 pm

Thanks for providing your perspective, Chalsie! Glad to have you.

terezib February 18, 2016 at 3:52 pm

when our private tour guide (a young man about 20 years old) took us to the War Remnants Museum (that’s it’s current official title) in Saigon in 2007, he seemed very pro-American, and rather anti-French, for having started the whole mess in the first place. That is the feeling I got the whole time we were in Saigon – everyone was very nice to us, and I did get a few comments about the French. They apparently STILL don’t like French tourists, LOL.

Robert Schrader February 20, 2016 at 8:41 am

Sacre bleu!

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