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Seville Starts Here

Seville Starts Here

I wasn’t sure how many days in Seville I would end up spending, even though I booked four nights in a hotel in the city. Seville was my base in Andalusia—well, one of them—and I didn’t want to focus only on its city center.

On the other hand, Seville enchanted me almost from the moment I stepped off the bus and walked into its Casco Antiguo old town. The charm continued even during inhospitable times, like when I stepped out one day during the most blazing part of the afternoon, when the sheer white-hotness of the air educated me in an instant about why the concept of siesta exists, my decision not to observe it notwithstanding.

Seville, to be frank, is what Madrid wishes it was, and what every city in Spain should be. This fact makes the city both extremely easy and impossibly difficult to write about.

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Where to Stay in Seville

I’ll get back to the topic of how many days in Seville in just a second, but for now, let’s talk about where you should sleep. One of my favorite things about Seville is just how many amazing hotels are there. In particular, there’s a high concentration of small boutique hotels, such as the H10 Corregidor (where I stayed on my most recent trip) and Hotel Fernando III, a choice that’s a bit more upscale.

No matter which property you choose, I would recommend to stay somewhere in the Casco Antiguo, aka the Old Town. Additionally, while there are many Airbnb properties in Seville, I personally feel this is a city that demands a hotel. First of all, because there are so many of them priced so competitively and secondly, because Seville is such an unabashed tourist city.

What to Do in Seville

Get lost in el Casco Antiguo

 
 
 

On a square-kilometer basis, Seville’s Casco Antiguo (old town) is probably the most satisfying place in Spain for me, certainly as a photographer. And I’m not just talking about must-see attractions like the Catedral de Sevilla and Alcazar de Sevilla, although they’re both more than worth the price of the admission (particularly the alcazar, which for my money is even better than the most famous one in Granada). I recommend devoting at least a full day to explore Seville’s beating heart..

Relax in the shade of Las Setas

 

No matter how long to stay in Seville you decide, you’ll definitely make at least one stop at Las Setas. The question is how often you come back, and whether you pay to go up on top. For me, the structure is more impressive from ground level; the view from the tower of the cathedral is more sweeping. Either way, this monument (which constitutes the world’s largest wooden structure and whose name means “The Mushrooms” in Spanish) is definitely worth some attention while you’re in Seville.

Dig into the unique history of Plaza de España

 

Seville’s Plaza de España surprised me, first and foremost because it’s located quite a bit south of the Casco Antiguo. This wouldn’t have been so bothersome, had I not made that walk on one of the hottest days in Seville’s history! The attraction itself is truly fascinating though, whether you take it all in from above on one of its panoramic balconies, ride a boat along the canal or explore finer details. Namely, tile-covered benches dedicated to each of Spain’s provinces, which underlie the reason the plaza was built in the first place: the 1928 Ibero-American Exposition.

Spend an evening in Triana

 

Speaking of tile, Triana is another district you should explore, regardless of how many days in Seville you have. Located across the Guadalquivir River from the Old Town, Triana is famous for being where many of the tiles you find throughout el Casco Antiguo were made, although you needn’t tour a tile shop to be charmed. To be frank, I’m a fan of simply getting lost, and also of dining waterside at many of the restaurants set up right along the river.

Explore the rest of Andalusia

 
 
 

Seville is great as a standalone destination, but where it really shines is as a base for exploring Andalusia. For most travelers, this involves a simple decision: Do you head north (to Córdoba) or south, to Cádiz and/or Jerez de la Frontera? To be sure, you can also technically access destinations like Granada, Malaga, Nerja and Ronda from Seville, although I find these are most conveniently explored from a base further east.

So, How Long Do You Need in Seville?

If you were just staying in the center of Seville and not taking any day trips, I’d say you could probably get by with 2-3 full days here. This would give you a full day in the Old Town, plus another day where you could do whatever you like—perhaps heading down to Plaza de España during the day time, then over the river to Triana in the afternoon.

However, the topic of how many days in Seville inevitably loops in the rest of Andalusia. Here, too, you have options. I personally consider Andalusia in terms of eastern and western lobes; I like to split my “base” between Seville and Granada. If you do this, I’d say you should spend at least 4-5 days in Seville. If, however, Seville is your only Andalusian base, then I’d say close to a week in Seville is probably more realistic and sensible.

Other FAQ About Visiting Seville, Spain

Is Seville worth visiting?

Seville, for my money, in Spain’s most satisfying tourist city—it’s absolutely worth visiting. If you tire of its charming Casco Antiguo old town (unlikely), you can take day trips to literally a dozen cities in Spain’s Andalusia region, including Cordoba, Cadiz and Jerez de la Frontera.

Is 2 days in Seville enough?

Two days is enough to explore Seville’s immediate city center, including its Old Town and some of the districts immediately around it. However, if you aspire to explore Andalusia beyond Seville and haven’t committed to sleeping elsewhere in the region, you’ll need more than 2 days in Seville.

Is 3 days enough in Seville?

With 3 days in Seville, you can spend a full day in the Casco Antiguo old town, another day going off Seville’s beaten path and then spend your third day on a day trip. Generally, I’d say Cordoba is the best day trip option from Seville, although if you didn’t previously visit Granada it might be the best choice (although it is a very long “day trip” from Seville, with a journey time of three hours each way).

The Bottom Line

When it comes to visiting Seville, how many days you devote is key to your enjoyment of the place. Indeed, Seville will be not just a destination, but one of your bases in Andalusia, Spain’s most rewarding region for exploration and discovery. Combining this with Seville’s own strengths, I’d say that 4-5 days is the minimum amount of time you should consider staying here, assuming your trip to Spain lasts at least a couple weeks. Want to make sure your Spain sojourn is absolutely perfect? Hire me as your Travel Coach—and let me sweat the details.

 

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