Paris, as I’ve often written about on this website (and, indeed, is often talked about in the wider discourse about France) is the country’s “primate city,” dominating not only in population, but in just about every other way you could. France isn’t just Paris, but it can often feel like it is.
And yet once you finally escape the capital—it took me until my fourth trip, so don’t feel bad if you’re equally as far behind—you start to realize just how amazing the rewards of leaving it behind can be.
With this being said, I don’t want to mislead you about the Lyon vs Bordeaux debate—neither of these cities are the best in France, as far as I’m concerned. But they’re nonetheless productive next steps after Paris.
Neither of These French Cities Are My Favorite
As I was mentally preparing myself to write today, I scrolled through Instagram. And of course, the creepy algorithm was somehow reading my thoughts. Literally the first story I happened upon was one that depicted Lyon as some kind of fairytale wonderland; beneath it were dozens of comments agreeing with that assessment. But I will be honest with you: Whether we are talking about Lyon or Bordeaux or both, I am just not in love with either of these cities.
Now, that’s not to say that I regret having traveled to both, or that I think there’s no utility in you going as well. Among other reasons, I’m about to explain that for me, both these places served less as end destinations, and more as bases for exploring regions. But although I certainly had moments of transcendence as I explored both Bordeaux and Lyon, I simply don’t rank either near the top when it comes to travel in France more broadly.
Ways to Compare Lyon with Bordeaux
Cityscape
Unless you see it from the top of St. Michael’s Basilica, Bordeaux’s sprawling cityscape is neither impressive nor even apparent. Which makes sense: It’s a largely flat city located along the forgettable Garonne River. By contrast, Lyon (which sits alone the Rhône) is much more interesting, particular when you look down on it from various viewpoints in the hilltop Fourvière district.
Vibe
Both Lyon and Bordeaux definitely have their own energy. I’d say that in Bordeaux, I preferred the relaxed and working class energy of the districts near the train station (where I was staying) to how hectic and crowded (and even a bit sketchy) the tourist areas were. Lyon, for me, strikes a better balance. The area between Place Bellecour and the aforementioned Fourvière manages to be inviting to tourists, but also bustling with local activity.
Things to do
Neither of these cities is a tourism mecca, though each certainly has attractions—and not just the churches I mentioned earlier in this piece. Bordeaux’s most famous attraction is probably Place de la Bourse square, though I’d avoid putting too much emotion into seeing it reflected in the disappointing Miroir de l’Eau. Lyon, by contrast, feels most itself in Vieux Lyon, whether you’re walking amid hidden passageway, or sitting down for quenelles in a traditional bouchon.
Getting there and around
When comparing Bordeaux vs Lyon on this front, they’re basically even: About two hours on a TGV will get you to either (from Gare Montparnasse in the former case; from—surprise!—Gare de Lyon in the latter). Where they differ is that while Bordeaux only has buses and trams (which honestly make me want to walk most of the times), Lyon has a metro, which is probably my favorite one in France after Paris.
Day trips and excursions
Each of these cities is even more impressive as a base for day trips from as a destination, full stop. From Bordeaux, you can head slightly outward to wineries in Saint-Emilion and Margaux, northward to La Rochelle or southward to Dune du Pilat and the French Basque Country. Lyon is within day-trip distance not only of Dijon and Beaune (the easiest entry point for the Burgundy wine country), but also to Annecy, Chamonix and the rest of the French Alps.
How Long Do You Need in Bordeaux? What About Lyon?
Given that I suggest both of these cities as day trips for exploring their respective regions, I’m going to suggest you spend longer in them that you might think. In Bordeaux, I suggest a minimum of 3-4 days. This gives you a full day in the city center (which is more than enough, as far as I’m concerned) and 2-3 days to take day trips, whether those see you visit wineries in Margaux and Saint-Emilion, or head further afield to La Rochelle or the Basque Country.
For Lyon, I more or less recommend the same thing: One day in Lyon-proper, and one each for each day trip you want to take. I spent three nights in Lyon; after I finished in the city center, I took one day trip northward to Dijon and the Burgundy wine country, and another east into the French Alps. But there are many other prospective day trip destinations, including Colmar near the border with Germany and even Marseille if you aren’t planning a dedicated visit there.
Other FAQ About Bordeaux and Lyon
Which is nicer, Bordeaux or Lyon?
Lyon is probably a more objectively beautiful city compared to Bordeaux, with its hilltop Notre-Dame de Fourvière cathedral rising above the Rhône River to create scenes that nothing in Bordeaux can really compare to. I also personally find Lyon to feel a bit less sketchy than Bordeaux on the whole.
Is Lyon a walkable city?
The historical center of Lyon is definitely walkable, though the city as a whole is much larger than it looks. It would take you the better part of an hour, for example, to walk from Part-Dieu Station to the Old Town. Thankfully, Lyon has a sprawling and efficient metro system, so you really don’t need to walk if you don’t wan to.
Is Lyon or Bordeaux more expensive?
Like most cities in France and in western Europe in general, both Lyon and Bordeaux are relatively expensive, and offer relatively poor value compared to what you get. You can expect to pay upwards of €200 for a three- or four-star hotel in either city, which is going to be your largest expense in both cases.
The Bottom Line
The Lyon vs Bordeaux debate is not entirely productive, at least not for me. After all, neither of these cities is my favorite in France, even if I can see how (and why) they’re essential to gaining a clear understanding of the country as a whole. To give credit to both, they each offer easy access to some of France’s truly exceptional destinations—the Basque Country from Bordeau and the French Alps from Lyon are just a couple of examples. Need personalized help seeing how secondary French cities can fit into your larger France itinerary? Consider hiring me as your Travel Coach, and letting me do all the tedious legwork for you.
