The tourist trail is sometimes more enlightening than the philosopher’s path.
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Circling The Whirlpool’s Edge
Everyone, deep in their hearts, is waiting for the end of the world to come.
Continue ReadingThree Days in Matsumoto
Three days in Matsumoto is a great respite, even if you think you don’t need one.
Continue ReadingThree Outstanding Days in Osaka
Osaka might only be Japan’s third-largest city, but in many ways, it’s the most enjoyable.
Continue ReadingThe Best Day—and Weekend—Trips from Tokyo
Whether you enjoy views of Mt. Fuji in Yamanashi, bask in the warm sea breezes in Shizuoka or the straddle the boundary between past and future in Kanagawa, these excursions from Tokyo are trips through time, space and the very bounds of reality.
Continue ReadingCarp and Dragon in the Viper Forest
Travel always seems to lock stretches of my life in parentheses, but I’m never sure whether I’m inside or outside them.
Continue ReadingJapanese Gothic
The Japanese have perfectly reconciled their past with their present—I need to learn how to do this.
Continue ReadingJapan’s Best-Kept Secret
Hakodate is not among the first tier of cities people tend to visit on their trips to Japan. Here’s why you should make it there anyway.
Continue ReadingThree Killer Days in Kyoto
Three days in Kyoto is not enough time to absorb all the history and heritage the city has to offer, but it is enough to start a love affair that will keep you coming back year after year.
Continue ReadingNorthern Underexposure
Cameras break, people lose their tempers and we can’t all be soulmates.
Continue ReadingThe Big Problem With Internet and Phones in Japan
The bad news? Foreigners cannot buy SIM cards in Japan. The good news? There’s a workaround.
Continue ReadingYou’ll Never Believe the Prices in Japan
With intelligent planning—and a little bit of restraint—you can travel in Japan without going broke.
Continue ReadingHow to Time Travel from Tokyo
Nikko is just a short trip away from Tokyo, geographically, but it feels like going back in time several centuries.
Continue ReadingMe, the Mountains and a Dozen Nude Japanese Men
My past three weeks in Japan have been extraordinary, no doubt, but they’ve also been extraordinarily exhausting. So naturally, I had to cap them off in a place known for extraordinary relaxation!
Continue ReadingMonkeying Around in the Japanese Alps
Seeing Japan’s snow monkeys reminded me of the time another traveler (the one who first informed me of their existence, no less) made a monkey out of me.
Continue ReadingAre Japan’s “Animal Islands” All They’re Cracked Up to Be?
I found both of Japan’s animal islands more disappointing than the majority of other bloggers.
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